Niacinamide

Its mode of action

Niacinamide has different modes of action:

Pigment spots are reduced because niacinamide prevents the spread of melanin.

The skin's barrier function is restored because niacinamide stimulates the synthesis of lipids (especially ceramides) that help retain water in the stratum corneum. It increases the biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other lipids in the stratum corneum to improve the permeability barrier of the epidermis.

Niacinamide protects the skin from the effects of stress, pollution and UV rays by blocking free radicals (antioxidant effect).

The anti-aging effect is not only due to the antioxidant effect, but also to the fact that the molecule stimulates the production of collagen and elastin.

Niacinamide triggers cell renewal and microcirculation (increases cellular energy). It also helps maintain an even texture and reduce roughness.

It helps balance and reduce excess sebum production in all skin types, while minimizing the appearance of enlarged pores.

Niacinamide has calming properties that help reduce redness caused by certain skin disorders. It is considered to have a powerful antioxidant effect, repairing the skin barrier and decreasing the expression of chemokines and cytokines associated with redness.

Use

Niacinamide is found in almost all our beauty products: facial cleansers, toners, serums, creams, after-sun care, gels... (anything water-based, not oil-based). It's best to use it with products that will stay on the skin. Regarding the concentration of niacinamide in products, the benefits are measured from 1% to 2%.

Security

Luckily, this essential vitamin is suitable for everyone. Both dry and oily skin can benefit from it. It's a versatile ingredient that can treat a multitude of skin concerns. Plus, niacinamide is compatible with all the products in your daily skincare routine.

However, you must be careful to follow these usage instructions. Always test the product to see how your skin reacts (even if niacinamide is suitable for sensitive skin). Furthermore, it is necessary to respect the application doses. Otherwise, niacinamide is not subject to any conditions of use.

Research

« Niacinamide is a (…) anti-acne drug with a potent anti-inflammatory effect. Findings of this study indicate that 4% niacinamide containing gel is effective and safe in alleviating symptoms of mild to moderate acne, with earlier improvement in pustules ».

Kaymak, Yeşim, and M. Onder. "An investigation of efficacy of topical niacinamide for the treatment of mild and moderate acne vulgaris." J Turk Acad Dermatol 2.4 (2008): jtad82402a.

« Acne vulgaris is purported to improve following topical nicotinamide application, owing to a combination of anti-inﬂammatory action and reduction of sebum production, both critical in controlling the disease. Several trials have used topical nicotinamide (at doses of 2–4% with duration of treatment of 4-8 weeks) compared with placebo or topical clindamycin ».

Forbat, E., F. Al‐Niaimi, and F. R. Ali. "Use of nicotinamide in dermatology." Clinical and experimental dermatology 42.2 (2017): 137-144.

Khodaeiani, E., et al. "Topical nicotinamide gel compared with clindamycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne." (2002): 25-30.

Shalita, Alan R., et al. "Topical nicotinamide compared with clindamycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris." International journal of dermatology 34.6 (1995): 434-437.

« Nicotinamide shows promise for the treatment of a wide range of dermatological conditions, including autoimmune blistering disorders, acne, rosacea, ageing skin and atopic dermatitis. In particular, recent studies have also shown it to be a potential agent for reducing actinic keratoses and preventing skin cancers ».

Chen, Andrew C., et Diona L. Damian. « Nicotinamide and the Skin ». The Australasian Journal of Dermatology, vol. 55, n^o 3, august 2014, p. 169‑75. source

Tanno, O., et al. "Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier." British Journal of Dermatology 143.3 (2000): 524-531. source

« Vitamin B3 reduces the transfer of melanin (carried in melanosomes) to keratinocytes where it is deposited (as pigment) ».
Wohlrab, Johannes, and Daniela Kreft. "Niacinamide-mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology." Skin pharmacology and physiology 27.6 (2014): 311-315. source

Navarrete-Solís, Josefina, et al. "A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma." Dermatology research and practice 2011 (2011). s ource